Picture book of a common installation

Float your mouse over the pictures to read words of wisdom.  Click on a picture to enlarge them.  

The MKQ Installation Guide supplements the instruction manual and shares tips we have found helpful.  This material does not directly pertain to installing a Loft or LittleFoot frame.

mk_quilts_installation_guide_for_owners_july_2022.pdf
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hq-studio-2-frame-manual-03-22-22.pdf
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Note:  This Studio2 frame is being set up at only 8ft.  This leaves out the middle section of parts.  The middle section is either 2ft or 4ft in size, making the 10ft or 12ft frame dimensions.  The Amara and Forte are essentially the same machines, but the Forte and Infinity go on the larger Gallery2 frame.  All the Gallery parts look similar to the Studio parts.

Box 1 has the two main table segments.

Take photos of possible damage. HQ will replace items damaged in shipping.

Installation Instructions

This install may shuffle a few steps listed in the instructions.

Remove and open extra boxes.

Set sidearm parts aside. REMOVE the rails from the table segments.

Damage was only to the underside of the table.

Layout table to validate space. (8ft setup simply removes the 2ft segment and one leg.)

Third section is 2' or 4' depending on size ordered. (not used with 8' config)

Use the large bag of 65 screws to assemble table base. There will be one left.

Set black track aside.

Table corner pieces.

Leg pieces.

Brackets for the joints are wrapped in plastic wrap.

Take note of table corners. Small damage can lead to misalignment.

Small cosmetic damage is going to be covered by other parts and won't effect the frame.

Side legs can be assembled. The batting bar hooks go on the outside.

Careful to keep the leg extensions at the minimum height.

At 8', the extra leg and parts can be saved.

TIP: Put something under the leg to hold table in a perpendicular position.

Side plates will be used when the side legs are attached.

Attaching the side legs requires a top down approach. Do not tighten the screws fully.

The screws on the bottom/back of the table are installed AFTER the frame is stood upright.

Casters or rubber feet should be installed. You may need a tool to push past paint in the threads.

I use my thumb as a guide to make sure all feet are at the same height.

Stand up the table - Use help when available.

Start tightening screws at the table joints, making sure the parts are aligned and smooth.

Go around and tighten all 64 screws, insuring that the legs are straight according to the instructions. Don't forget the center leg(s).

Layout metal rail parts on the table.

The screws and metal inserts are critical to align the rail segments.

The third screw hole in is a stopper. Insert screws completely, then insert the metal piece.

Align the two tracks and secure the other four screws.

Inspect the rails to assure a smooth connection.

Tight and smooth, or redo.

Unwrap the black tracks. Check for damage to the surface of the tracks.

Block the rail so one end hangs off the table.

Insert the black track into the rail. The straighter you extend the black track, the less shavings will occur.

Depending on the table size, you may need to cut the excess off.

Crimp the black track from both sides to create a notch.

Notch.

Bend to snap.

Repeat track for both sides. Flat side of rail goes toward the inside of the table.

Align the front track with the front end of the table and tighten it down. Note, this is different than what the instructions state. Trust us.

Repeat on the back rail but leave the screws loose. Float the back rail.

Saving extra parts from 8' build. Table can be extended later with purchase of new track and rail hardware.

Sidearm assemblies may require re-positioning the plugs depending which side the pole wheels will be used. But that can wait until the pole assembly.

Leave the two bolts about one turn loose from the tightest position to allow movement. Tip: You may need to loosen other screws to allow parts to fit together properly.

Note the 'B' position of the bolts. Attaching to the frame should be done after assembly.

Pro-Stitcher box. The carriage is on lower half.

The 'Y' axis blue track is hiding in the slot. The tablet type may vary.

This is the new PS carriage. Note the LEDs and silver motors.

Parts from the Pro-Stitcher accessories. Note that a separate power cable is provided, not a jumper from the machine. PS carriage stays powered unless unplugged.

Unwrap the blue track at the earliest opportunity to let it straighten. Rolling it the opposite direction can help straighten it.

Manual control of the motors to engage and dis-engage the gears. Remove when not in use and before placing machine on carriage.

Tip: Use a smartphone light to illuminate the gear area below the carriage.

Use the carriage to guide placement of the blue track. Remove the pink tape covering as you go. Looking from the side at table level is easier than looking from above.

Use drill bit provided to secure hold down brackets. A strong wrist and screwdriver can force the screws into the table if drill is not available.

Time to un-box the machine. Be careful to collect the staples as you go. No reason to leave them in the box.

Remove the top box. It hold an accessory box but no carriage when a PS is ordered.

Open both ends.

Push it out while the customer catches the baby.

Lay it on the encoder side and remove the accessories and bobbin winder.

Free the accessories box. Note: The accessory box for Forte ships as a separate box.

The thread can stay, but the rest needs to be removed to complete assembly.

This is the machine birth certificate.

This is not used when the PS is installed.

Take this warning seriously. Needle bar alignment can be affected.

Remove machine carefully so as to not bend the encoder on the side. The plastic sleeve can be removed by carefully sliding it past the needle. If you cut it, be careful not to scratch the machine.

Laying the machine back into the foam allows attachment of the Y-track.

Find the right screws and test them in the threads of the wheel assembly.

Don't worry about alignment. That comes later.

Place machine on the table, use the weight and carriage to align and secure the rear track to the table. If you leave the screws loose to float the track, they will eventually vibrate out.

Separate the bags.

Unwrap the handlebars. The bolt to mount it is in the accessories bag.

Handlebar cables can easily be reversed.

Star left, diamond right.

Attache the thread mast first to the base. Then to the machine. A longer handled 2.5m allen driver is easier to use than the short one provided for putting on hopping feet.

Smaller display screws are not used for PS. They are used for non-PS panel.

Mount the PS bracket. You will neet to use a tool to bend the tight hinges to a position so you can attach them.

Carefully open front plastic cover. Check for crimped wiring.

Power cable is added with PS. USB cable goes to panel or PS hub, so it is already attached. Careful not to crimp wires and make sure ground is captured by screw.

Plug cables into the bottom of the hub.

Rear assembly: remove yellow tape from X encoder wire.

Power cable wire is no longer needed on the machine as the new PS is shipped with its own power cord, not a jumper.

Attach the PS cable from the carriage to the machine, using the plastic clip to secure it to the machine.

Rear (X-axis) encoder cable connects to the left side.

Don't force it into the wrong port.

Remove the tape.

Y-axis encoder on the side goes to the nearest port.

Note both serial numbers.

Assure cords are not binding with the encoder and free to move as the machine goes forward and backward.

Unless a "Quilt from behind" option is ordered, there will be no rear panel, rear handlebars, nor laser light assembly.

Loosen the front and rear screws on the Y-axis track assembly.

Align the Y-axis track to the gear. Careful not to have a screw or bracket hitting the motor housing.

Use the tool to engage the gear and track when necessary but do not leave it in the carriage.

This is the critical area to check for rubbing or hitting on the carriage motor assembly.

It is not always possible to get 100% of the track on the gear. Keeping the track straight with the gears will minimize squeaking. Rolling a piece of fabric soaked with silicone spray can eliminate squeaks for a time.

There is a tech note on what the LEDs represent.

Cables go from the top to the tablet and are specific to the tablet type.

Ignore these parts unless the poles appear to be too short. They are for extending the poles.

Put the ends on the poles before assembling the poles. It is much safer. We are not assembling the batting bar for this installation.

This tool and a firm grip will be required.

If this part does not turn freely, use the large hex to loosen.

We have extra bars because the batting bar is not being assembled. Customer would rather have access to below the table.

Paint may prevent nipple from popping through. Scraping the edge lightly will free it up.

Sometimes the spring gets out of alignment. A long screwdriver can straighten it out.

Save one of the boxes so you can store the extra parts. We did 8' and no batting bar, so there is a lot left over.

This will be a two foot or four foot box depending on the 10' or 12' table order.

You will need to open the box with the third table segment to retrieve these accessories. Note the velcro/"Hook and Loop" that needs to be applied to the bars using the nipples as guides.

Velcro must be added to the bars. The leaders should cascade toward each other in the front. The rear bar to the back.

Time to balance the table.

Leaders will need to be shortened if not a 10 or 12 foot configuration.

Extra parts.